Knot Strength Reference

Standard climbing tie-in knot. Strong, secure, and easy to inspect. Retains 80% of rope strength.

Creates a loop in the middle of a rope without needing the end. Common in climbing and rescue.

Secure method for joining two ropes. Used to create cord loops (Prusik cords). Very reliable.

Quick to tie and adjust. Used for securing a rope to a post or tree. Can slip under varying load.

Used to join flat webbing. Common in climbing anchors. Must be set tight before loading.

Creates a loop in the middle of a rope that pulls in any direction. Used to isolate damaged rope sections.

Slides freely when not loaded, grips when loaded. Essential for ascending, rappelling backup, and rescue.

Adjustable loop that holds under tension. Standard tent guyline knot. Slides to adjust, jams under load.

Best knot for joining ropes of different diameters. Double sheet bend for extra security.

Creates a 3:1 mechanical advantage for tensioning. Essential for tying down loads and tarp setups.

Extremely secure binding knot. Can be nearly impossible to untie after heavy loading. Best temporary whipping.

Used for belaying or rappelling without a device. Twists rope but effective in emergencies.

Used for pulling or dragging logs and poles. Tightens under load, easy to release.

Creates a secure loop that will not slip. The "king of knots." Can be tied one-handed. Used for rescue harness attachment.

NOT for joining climbing ropes. Only for light loads. Can capsize under heavy load. Granny knot is dangerous imitation.